Skip to content


Six Prototyping boards from Wright Hobbies

6 prototyping boards from Wright HobbiesSix prototyping boards from Wright Hobbies, a new uCHobby sponsor. This article is a brief review of the new boards. A second comment contest where you can win a set of these boards is also announced.

We announced the Wright Hobbies giveaway sponsorship in this previous article along with a comment contest. There have been a lot of great comments in favor of the sponsorship idea. I have high hopes that sponsorship in exchange for giveaways will be a very successful project and that we will see other sites adopt this idea as well.

In this article I review each of the six prototyping boards including links and pricing information. Come look at these boards and get inspired to enter the comment contest, submit an article, or a link to uCHobby to receive a set of your own.

Each of the boards is reviewed below. Click on the board picture to see more detail. These pictures were taken using my flatbed PCB scanning technique. You may find the detailed shots at Wright Hobbies are better.

Six different prototyping boards are included in the giveaway package. Two of these boards are not currently for sale at Wright Hobbies. Each of the boards has a silkscreen side with white border lines showing how the pads are connected.

PB20 PB20 Prototype Board
This board has a large 0.1 inch grid of plated through holes with square pads on both sides to make it convenient for soldering down components. The board is 55x66mm or about 2.5×2.25 inches and costs about $4.

Two sets of pins, 2×16, arranged in connected pairs on each side with a grid of 484 pads in the center area. The details at Wright Hobbies indicates that the 2×16 pad sets are good for headers but since the pins are connected together we are talking about a single row header such as you find on an LCD display. This picture is of the solder side of the board so we do not see the white silk screen border which indicates the connections between pads. Except for the 2×16 header rows, the grid is of unconnected pads.

The first idea that popped into my mind for this board was an LCD interface board. Use the header row to connect the LCD module, add the parts to include a few buttons and an I2C chip to make a ready-to-go user interface.

Go here for more information on the PB20 prototyping board at Wright Hobbies.

 

PB10 PB10 Prototype Board
This may be my favorite prototype board. Similar to the P20 in size it also has the header pad sets on each end. But this board is arranged like a solderless breadboard with rows of connected pins with a gap, ideal for standard DIP ICs. The center two rows are connected to make power rails. It should be very easy to transfer a project to this board when you are ready to move into the real world.

The PB10 is 55x65mm or about 2.5×2.2 inches and costs about $4.

Go here for more information on the PB10 prototyping board at Wright Hobbies.

 

 

PB4SEPB576

This very nice board is actually 4 boards in one. There are several connected pads on this 0.1 inch gridded board. Pre-scoring on the board allows you to break it into two or four separate boards. If you need a small board for a project, snap one off. The arrangement of the connected pads makes good areas for ICs and power rails. I bought a 5 pack for my home lab a few weeks ago.

This board costs about $2.50 and has an overall size of about 3×2 inches. Each of the smaller boards is about 1×1.5 inches.

Go here for more information on the SEPB576 prototyping board at Wright Hobbies.

 

EXPBOARD2 EXPBOARD2
This board is much larger, 4.75×3.15 inches and is a basic 0.1 inch grid of copper pads. As you can tell from it’s tan color, the material is phenolic . Phenolic is lower cost than standard PCB material, which makes this a low-cost option for prototyping at about $2.50. Phenolic is fine for prototype PCB work and is easier to cut or snap to size. Just score it along the holes and snap away the excess.

Go here for more information on the EXPBOARD2 prototyping board at Wright Hobbies

 

Special Board 1
SpecialBoard1 This board is not currently shown at the Wright Hobbies site. It has a 0.1 grid of pads which are connected in rows in the long direction of the board. It is also made of phenolic. The idea with this board is that you cut the traces to separate the pads. By using a few short jumpers and cutting the traces you can wire up a prototype quickly.

The board is about 2.16×3.65 inches

Currently Wright Hobbies does not sell this board online but we do include it in the giveaway/contest package.

This board is available – pb9412 Stripboard at Wright Hobbies

 

Special Board 2
SpecialBoard2 "right" border="0" /> I may have saved the best prototype board for last. This board is ROUND! You can use it as a square board or break away the corners to get a round board. Eddy designed this board to make it easy for people building round robots. The silk screen shows the clever arrangement of connected pins. I’m sure this board will be available at Wright Hobbies at some point but for now, you can get one in the package from uCHobby.

The board is about 3 inches square with the round part being about 2.75 inches in diameter.

This board is available – pb-bp007 at Wright Hobbies

Comment Contest!
Yes, another comment contest for these boards. In addition to the contest announced in the previous sponsorship article, we will be giving several of these prototype board packages away for comments here.

Eddy suggested that we give some packages away for good ideas on how to use them so that is how we will do it. Make a comment on this article with a brief description of how you will make use of the boards. I will select one or two random winners from all the good comments and one or two favorites to receive free kits.

Visit Wright hobbies and thank Eddy for making this possible. Spread the word about the contest and good luck.

Posted in Contest, Discovering, Parts, Projects, uC Hobby Site, Workshop Tools.

36 Responses

Stay in touch with the conversation, subscribe to the RSS feed for comments on this post.

  1. Matthew said

    SEPB576 looks very flexible. I think the full board may just fit, without trimming, in an Altoids tin (3.5″ by 2.25″), so it’d be a perfect board for neatly packaging a portable project. PB10 may also fit, but only has half the space for DIP-format chips.

  2. Thomas said

    Looking at these I have two ideas.

    The first idea is a boring one. I have a simple C meter sitting on a breadboard which is almost ready to go onto something a little bit more solid.

    The second idea is the revival of an idea I saw a long time ago. People were using soda cans as electronics enclosures. They were great for hand-held devices, particular when only one-button or two-button operation with the thump was required (stopwatch, remote on/off control, etc).

    Maybe the round one might fit into an empty soda can. If it is to large for a soda can, then maybe a food can. But a food can would mean something larger than a handheld device.

  3. Berni said

    What if two of those round boards could be made in to a yo-yo with a LED POV display.

  4. dfowler said

    Thomas,
    What is a C meter?

  5. matt said

    The round board looks very interesting. I am thinking that it could be used inside a float ball, inside a tank to implement a wireless depth gauge. (i know you could used a square board but where is the fun in that!)

    M

  6. bmarchman said

    That round one PB has me envisioning a homebrew “Simon”-esque type game. Could even go so far as to use the round one to create a simple gaming “console”, and use the other PB’s as peripherals or cartridges for it. First thing that came to my mind.

  7. Joseph Yumul said

    dfowler, i think Thomas mean the Capacitance meter and why you don’t post here http://www.uchobby.com/index.php/2007/06/04/free-arduino-microcontroller-kits/ ?

  8. Joseph Yumul said

    The round board is very nice, when i have that i will put many led’s in it to make it as a small sign board/or as a POV board connected to an Adafruit boarduino

  9. Daniel said

    Well I guess my idea would be to get a EXPBOARD2 cut it into 4 strips and make some sort of POV for a bike wheel.
    I already have the PB10 and the PB20. I think the PB10 is a excellent board, I will try when I need to move from the breadboard. But the PB20′s pitch is too small and is for someone who still wirewraps, not for me.

  10. Daniel said

    haha forgive me for not reading the comment before mine.

  11. Daniel said

    I think a C meter would be a Capacitance meter. But just a guess.

  12. I’d use one of these guys for an Arduino shield for my senior design project–mapping multipath fading with the DSP from an optical mouse and two COTS radio modules.

  13. dfowler said

    Joseph and Daniel

    Yes.. I understand C meter is Capacitance..

  14. dfowler said

    Joseph,

    I dont understand your comment about posting to another article? The link you gave is to an older article at uCHobby. That post is done and about a differnt subject. I may update parts of an older post on rare ocasion but I dont see any reason to update it becase of this article.

    David

  15. BrandonU said

    Special Board 1
    I wouldn’t mind seeing these for sale! This is a great board for building circuits. I have seen this type go by the name stripboard, along with “Veroboard”. This type of board seems to get a bit more attention overseas then it does in the USA. There is a bit of information on using these boards on the net, and even some free layout tools are available. Nuts and Volts even has an article in their April ’08 issue covering these types of boards.

  16. Alan said

    The PB-10 looks perfect for all of the 8-pin or 16 pin dip projects that I do, and it is nice that you include some solder pad rows that are individual of each other that could be utilized for things such as pin headers or certain connection points. The SEPB576s look like very good candidates for using LM317s for various projects after being broken up, and the PB 20 makes for an awesome candidate for making 5mm or 3mm LED grid panels.

  17. Joseph Yumul said

    i mean why you don’t leave a reply there recently

  18. Ford said

    The price on the EXPBOARD2 is so low you could use it for the structure of a robot or something. Just solder some right angle 0.1″ headers between the sides (at right angles) and you can build a box shape out of them. Then, mount sensors and stuff right on the outside and put other components on the inside. I don’t know if that’s been done before but I’ve never seen it…

  19. The round board would be cool to do some sort of analog or digital LED clock.

    The PB10 would be cool for a quick and dirty permanent version of a breadboard design. Very useful for projects when space and layout aren’t too critical but you need a durable version to test in the real world.

  20. dfowler said

    Joseph,

    I am replying to your request in email. The comments are for on topic comments about the posted article and are not well suited to back and forth comunications. Please use my email address for general comunications.

  21. Ford, a similar approach was used in Solarbotics’ Herbie the Mousebot–the two sides are lined up using slots and tongues, and then soldered joints both hold the sides and tie the circuitry together.

    I’d love to see a robot whose circuits were an integral part of the structure!

  22. Joseph Yumul said

    The round board is nice, you can also use it with the Renesas HTS demo board as the board for the outputs and it has also the same color

  23. Wright Hobbies now has the stripboard and the round board availalbe at their site. This article has been updated with the links.

  24. Ooo, one of those round ones would be perfect for a project I’m working on.

    I’m making a hat that gives the wearer a sixth sense, inspired by the feelspace belt.

    An ATMega168 controls a series of vibe motors circling the head of the wearer using a Maxim 16 channel LED driver IC and gets your location and bearing from a Tyco GPS Module and a digital compass.

    You load it up with a bunch of co-ordinates, and it guides you to them by softly pulsing the vibe motors in the direction you need to go.

    I think a circular board 2.75″ in diameter would be perfect for hiding in the top of the hat.

  25. We often play frisbee in the evening, and of course as it gets dark and you get hit with it a few times, talk moves to night frisbee disks. The round board would be perfect for a microcontroller driven led display around the rim. When playing ultimate (a frisbee game), you could even have triggers that change the led colors (eg tap top if you are the blue team. That way you can see it, and know who is in control.

  26. Paul said

    The way to use the strip board is to put breaks into the traces with a small drill slightly larger than the width of a trace, don’t put it in a electric drill, use it in your hand, put it in a hole where you want a break and twist

  27. mtbf0 said

    my little brother and his wife recently imported a 5 year old girl from china. i was thinking to use the round board for an led birthday cake hat… mega168 and six rgb leds arranged around the perimeter with plastic drinking straw diffusers with, perhaps, a little flame of hot glue at the tip of each.

  28. schill said

    Some very useful looking boards here. I particularly like the PB10 and Special Board 1. I think I’m going to have to head over to Wright Hobbies (ok, I’m already there).

  29. schill said

    Please don’t count this as a separate comment (for contest purposes), but I meant to also mention that the SEPB576 is perfect for a project I was just thinking about.

  30. juancubillo said

    Take a couple motors & batteries and sandwich them in two of those round boards. Add a ucontroller and you’ve got a pretty robot platform. Now keep adding sensors and blinkin’ lights to amaze viewers :)
    ooooohhhhh….me like the blinkin’ lights….

  31. Dan said

    I am trying to orient the optics for a hobby laser tag system that includes hit detection boxes (direct hit, near miss, ect). As such, I am using a 3″ diameter PVC pipe with IR LED decoders 2′ inside the PVC. Currently, I have an ugly proto board at the back side with the PVC loosely connected. It works, but not very nice, and not transportable.

    I could take the round one, put my 4 IR LED detectors, a microcontroller (to decode the signals), and 4 lights to show me the alignment of the IR LED’s. Add a battery and a PVC endcap, and I can take that thing anywhere!

    Actually, come to think about it, I could now have special targets (points per base, ammo, respawn location…) Previously, I would need to specially mount the LED’s. Now I can mount the LED’s on the board, and secure the board to the pipe. Now that is useful!

  32. CHAD said

    Looks like these proto boards are of better quality than the (RS)ones i am using right now on my project for a easy to build light panel for video and photography.

    Great looking product i think ill order these!!!

  33. Chris Osborne said

    The round idea is great but difficult to auto-layout.

  34. Joseph Yumul said

    Any winners yet?

  35. dfowler said

    Joseph,

    We announced winners for the first comment contest and will likely do the winners for this contest in the next few days.

Continuing the Discussion

  1. e80af8e346b4 linked to this post on May 15, 2008

    e80af8e346b4

    e80af8e346b4809928a0